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Chapter 5. Death.

 

   "The village where it rains sulphuric acid!"

 

North Eastern Daily Gazette, 17.3.1966.

 

The Belasis report by the Billingham Urban District Council (1), was introduced to study the option of rehousing the Haverton Hill residents on the two estates, in the face of severe air pollution. The problem was further complicated as all previous studies in Britain had involved slum clearance areas. Both the Local Authority and the I.C.I. estate, had good post World War One houses, with standard amenities. The study was also unusual, in that it took place before the people had been rehoused, rather than after, like all other studies.

 

In 1951 Haverton Hill had been designated a category D, settlement by Durham County Council. This meant that no further residences would be built and the population would be allowed to decline. I.C.I. argued that the houses were in good condition and better than houses elsewhere in Teesside, also, the company argued that it was replacing the smoky Second World War policy which the government had encouraged, with new technology.

 

In 1959 the Ministry of Housing and Local Government had not given any support to a rehousing scheme, due to Haverton Hill's modern housing. The council had decided it would incur too high a cost for purchasing the I.C.I. estate, therefore it decided to demolish houses on its own estate, where pollution was at its worst. I.C.I. had a change of heart and decided to waive compensation for demolition of its own more polluted areas.

 

The general deterioration since the last war had turned the "garden city" into "hard packed earth and glutinous mud, only dun coloured grass was able to grow, everywhere there was an atmosphere of dereliction" (2).

 

There had been some improvement in pollution levels. Readings showed that solid pollution was down by two thirds since 1947. In 1961 however, Haverton Hill's worst area was five times worse than any other area in Teesside. The best area of Haverton Hill was twice as bad as the next worst area at Billingham. closest to I.C.I. Across Haverton Hill itself, the area was two and a half times worse than the furthest area at Seaton Terrace. Pollution in the air was mainly in the form of sulphur dioxide and sulphur trioxide, both are corrosive. This type of pollution was six times worse than at Billingham.

 

The main polluter was I.C.I. The nearer to the chemical complex the worse it was. Casebourne Cement, British Titan, and the Central Electricity Generating Board, plus firms on the south bank of the River Tees all contributed. Many of the south bank firms were beginning to close down.

 

In 1956 it was found that the soil had become so acid from the pollution that it prevented the growth of plants. The Durham County Analyst put forward the idea that lime could be added to the soil to neutralize the acid. Corroded metal was considered to be replaceable. Therefore a combination of decreasing pollution and spending more money on the area, were still being considered as an option.

 

Doubts were voiced on any policy to maintain the settlements. The area was considered" a problem area." and "socially rough" ( 3) . 53% of the residents were semi or unskilled workers, which was high even for Dagenham in London which had 40%. This failure to attract professional workers, none lived on the estates, counted against the -128- village in its battle for survival. It was considered difficult to change the pattern of thought. of the residents, who were said to believe the area was unimprovable.

 

A description of the estate at this time says, "The location was not aesthetically pleasing. It was very flat with no trees" (4). The view south, was of the I.C.I. plant and there was a layer of dust everywhere. and walking difficult. The windows The wind made washing were kept shut for obvious reasons. The settlement had an uncared for appearance. The Local Authority estate in particular was singled out as having decrepit garden fences, uncultivated gardens and corroded, rusty metalwork.

 

The council considered the cost of maintaining the houses as high. From 1958 to 1962 the average annual cost was £20 per house on the Local Authority estate compared with £13 to £15 in comparable Billingham dwellings. The nearer to I.C.I. the greater was the dereliction.

 

The Local Authority estate had a high turnover of tenants. 18% of the 156 tenants had lived there for less than a year -129- and only 1 in 5 had lived there for more than 10 years. On the less polluted I.C.I. estate, turnover was only 8%.

 

Table 9. Example of turnover rates by road. 1.1.1943, (5). Codrington Crescent 16% Edward Crescent 14% Hood Crescent 13% Collingwood Crescent 10% Leven street 5% Rodney street. 5% seaton Terrace 5% Tees street. 5%

 

The first four streets had the worst pollution levels in Haverton Hill and a corresponding high turnover rate. It was thought that the turnover rate would be even higher if people could afford to move elsewhere, where rents would be higher. 47% of the residents were in rent arrears in 1963, compared with 17% in Clarence and 11% in Billingham.

 

The closing of the Furness shipyard and other firms had increased unemployment. In Haverton Hill unemployment reached 73% on the estates, Billingham had only 11% unemployed. There appeared to be little effect on the Haverton sickness rates. The population of the estates was young though, with over half the heads of households being under 40 years of age.

 

Throughout its existence Haverton Hill had been a community of immigrants, this never changed; 67% of residents had been born outside of Haverton in 1963 (6). The settlement was an old established one, so had plenty of amenities centred on the village. There were two main social clubs, the "Workmans" and the "Empire", also a library, three pubs and a flourishing pensioners club. The Methodist and Anglican churches offered Scouts, Guides, Mothers Union, etc.

 

There were signs of decline however. The cinema had closed and the sporting facilities at the I.C.I. estate were little used. The Furness Athletic Club had also declined. Residents claimed "everything goes to Billingham" (7), though it appears that part of the problem was newcomers to the estate, didn't seem to show much interest in social activities.

 

The residents seemed on the whole to want to stay in Haverton Hill. More liked the houses they lived in, than did not. The I.C.I. estate was favoured the most as it had lower rents with bigger houses and were redecorated before letting. 2/3 of households liked some of what Haverton Hill had to offer and though nearly 50% wanted to leave this was less than parts of Leeds, where 84% wanted to leave slum clearance areas. More wanted to leave the Local Authority estate than the I.C.I. estate. (8).

 

The conclusions of this unique report was that Haverton Hill was the most heavily polluted settlement in the country, though this seemed to have no effect on the residents health. The area was not comparable to old established working class areas, like Bethnal Green's community in London. Neither did it have the slim ties characteristic of post war housing estates, though it favoured the latter more (9).

 

The social problems from rehousing the residents were considered less for Haverton than Bethnal Green with its considerable community ties. Problems would occur however as Haverton people were held in low esteem at Billingham, the most likely rehousing area and the rents were much higher there.

 

On the question of whether to demolish Haverton Hill? The environment was considered unpleasant and encouraged a "couldn't care less attitude." Haverton Hill was regarded as filthy and "where rough people lived" (10). Overall, the residents did not want the settlement demolished. One resident said, "It would be a sin" but another said, " It needs a bomb dropping on it" and" Just let me push the button!" (11).

 

Arguments against demolition were, the high quality housing at low rents and the area was still better than having the residents end up in slum accommodation, which might be all they could afford elsewhere? 25% of the families already had financial problems. The economic and social value of good housing would have to be weighed against severe financial deficiencies. It was the Local Authority. who would have to face up to its responsibilities and decide whether to demolish or sustain the Haverton Hill settlement.

 

In 1965 rumors swept the settlement that the controlling Labour party on the Billingham Urban District Council had a policy to demolish the remaining residential areas of Port Clarence and Haverton Hill (12). The Health Committee had proposed a 5 to 10 year clearance programme which included demolition of Saltholme Terrace, Crosby Terrace and odd numbered houses in Queens Terrace, in Port Clarence.

 

A noisy council meeting followed, with Independent councillors arguing that houses were deliberately being left empty. One council'lor cried "don't you think we are putting up with as much as we can bear at Port Clarence? You are guilty of buying these houses with the full intention of destroying Port Clarence altogether?" (13), A Labour member argued that considerable sums were being spent on street lighting and on improving electrical appliances. There was also a play area policy and attempts were being made to obtain a Community Centre. The clearance programme was defeated by one vote.

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The Health Committee thought that the only solution was, " to put the matter to the Haverton Hill Estates Sub Committee and see if they could salvage something of the wreck we have in Port Clarence and get the place cleaned up!" (14).

 

At the end of the year the Billingham Housing Committee outlined their plans to demolish 300 houses in Haverton Hill which, were badly effected by air pollution, which would leave an improved community of 500 houses (15).

 

In Port Clarence 500 houses would make up a modernized and improved settlement. Bell Street and Lothian Terrace would form the centre of a redevelopment area. Kensington, Queens, Saltholme and Crosby Terraces would be demolished due to their age and condition. Newby and Victoria Terrace council properties would be repaired and improved. Houses in Windsor, Osborne, Young and Ruby Streets, owned by the council would be repaired and improved. Cowpen Bewley Road, property would be demolished, except for those adaptable to shopping or business accommodation.

 

A roundabout would be installed at the junction of Haverton Hill Road and Port Clarence Road, with a new road being built to Seal Sands. Property would be demolished to make way for these initiatives. £7000 would be spent immediately on open spaces, tree planting and improving demolished sites. A model and map were put on display at Haverton Hill to show the completed project.

 

The future of even these trimmed down communities were still in the balance despite these plans. In March 1966 Haverton Hill was named "Top of the pollution parade" (16). Residents argued that air pollution was Council countered by saying decreasing. Durham County this was incorrect and that Haverton Hill "was a contender for the championship" (17).

 

There had been some improvement in grit and dust but Belasis Avenue was still 8 times as bad as Billingham and was the 4th worst in the country (18). Sulphur pollution was 6 times worse than Billingham and the worst of 650 sites being studied across the country.

 

The council were now advocating the demolition of Haverton Hill by 1981 as part of " a long and established policy". The residents were not prepared to give up their community and offered a spirited and sometimes bitter defence. They argued that the residents east of Nelson Avenue lived in modern, low density, housing and locals had spent hundreds of pounds modernizing their homes. Many were employed in local industries and were in the habit of returning home for a proper lunch. The area's problems, were blamed on the council's policies of running the place down and planning needless demolition. This policy had led to landlords and residents not bothering to keep their properties in repair.

 

Councillor Allott for the residents, argued that other areas were suffering similar industrial pollution and the good parts of the settlement should be retained (20). Representatives of the Empire Social Club pressure group, pointed out that there was as much dirt now in the newer parts of Billingham.

 

6th March 1966 was the day when Haverton Hill's fate was finally decided (21). The Durham County Analyst decided that the village was unfit for a residential future. 1981 was revealed as the date for final clearance. The "Analyst" gave his reasons, "the grit and dust made it the worst polluted residential area in the country" (22). There was more sulphur in the air than anywhere else. Smoke had decreased but sulphur in the air was mixing with rain to form sulphuric acid. Whether metal, masonry, paint or plant, nothing could survive unmarked for long.

 

The general environment was unpleasant. "Dust and grit are everywhere, vegetation is sparse and gardens are neglected. What few trees and shrubs exist are dusty. There is often an unpleasent smell. There is no shortage of land for rehousing elsewhere" (23). 

 

The death of Haverton Hill was now certain but the residents with their tradition of enduring adversity fought on. Councillor Allott and 370 petitioners argued that the dirty air nuisance was an exaggeration (24). Isaac Oldfield, Treasurer and spokesman of the Empire Social Club's 700 members said, "Those who had gardens could grow what they want!" (25), though he agreed that sulphur was the main enemy.

 

J. Mclvor, there was spokesman of the Pensioners decreasing pollution in settlement (26). Club, stated the centre of that the -138- The County Analyst's instruments disagreed and his decision stood, Haverton Hill was doomed to obliteration (27).

 

Port Clarence however, stood the test. The County Council's plans to end housing at Port Clarence took a defeat, when a £20,000 social centre was agreed by the Local Council, who wanted to develop the unique community spirit of the settlement. From now on the paths of the two settlements began to diverge. Haverton Hill with no future was progressively allowed to fall into ruin.

 

Sydney Dallison, a retired fishmonger recalled how the village ended its remaining years. 3 houses in Belasis Avenue, quickly became ruins, six months after becoming empty. The old hostel had once been a worker's club, then a cinema, now it had only one room useable for bingo. a fine building once" (28), he mused.

 

Remembering Haverton as it was he said, "Once it was a fine place to live in .... Now it is getting more like a ghost town every day!" (29) . Broken pavements soil and rubble littered the settlement. He protested that "This sort of thing wouldn't be allowed anywhere else but Haverton Hill, -139- it's the poor brother of Teesside". One look at the place left no one in any doubt that the end was near.

 

I.C.I. had demolished 176 houses by 1971 leaving 355 still standing on their estate. When these became empty they were demolished if they were on the end of a row. The land was then cleared, to add to the I.C.I. Saltholme Farm for grazing.

 

In 1972 there was a speed up in the clearance plan. Port Clarence was definitely reprieved, but Haverton Hill's demolition would be speeded up and finished by 1976. 60% of Haverton's population now wanted to leave voluntarily but this figure was only 44% at Port Clarence (3D). Reasons for wanting to leave Clarence were given as, Limited shops, prices, air pollution, neglect, poor bus services, lack of social and play facilities, traffic and no chemist.

 

Further clearance of Haverton continued in 1973. The buildings south of the Saltwells branch railway line and north of the Haverton Shipyard, plus houses west of the Haverton Hill road were being acquired and cleared by the council as soon as it was possible. The Haverton Hill Hotel and adjoining betting shop, were spared but might be  acquired later for industrial or road widening purposes. Local commercial interests would also be spared.

 

Shortly afterwards Haverton Hill ceased to be a residential settlement, its struggle to survive against all the odds was finally over. Lay Preacher Sydney Duncan provides a suitable epitaph. "It is the forgotten village of Cleveland. It had neighbourliness, friendliness, and all the community spirit that doesn't exist in modern estates" (31). He thought that the planners had killed the villages future. "I still believe Haverton Hill should have been rebuilt."

 

Port Clarence survived, though as always beset with problems. Under the title" Where Coronation Street comes to Teesside" (32), one resident said " There's nothing for bairns to do and really there are no shops, if you want a prescription you have to go to town." Another complained " She hangs out the washing on the line and it soon gets dirty from all the dirt in the air" (33).

 

Fury erupted when a national newspaper stated that in Rugby Terrace, only 1 in 24 had bothered to get a T.V. Licence. "Virtually no one goes to work, youngsters spend all their time watching T.V. and playing cards, nipping out only to borrow cups of sugar, or convert their dole money into beer at the local pub" (34). The residents strongly denied this, saying everyone had a job or Y.T.S. The Community Association joined in by denying the centre existed as a refuge for card players.

 

After at first saying they did not have the funds to modernize the village, the Council authorised a grant for £3.5 million to clean up the area. This brought out feelings of anger, apathy, delight and stoic resignation. A Hawke street resident complained " The area has been turned into a dump" (35). A Tees street resident said "This place has slowly been going down hill" (36). Most thought the plan had come far too late. Unemployment had now reached 80% in Port Clarence.

 

Industrial development of the region increased as the residential areas were cleared. The 300 families at Port Clarence found themselves close to the Calor Gas distribution depot, which had been termed a "major hazardous -institution" (37). Special "Bumper car" trains of acid and petrol, inched their way along the railway above the village.

 

The residents were unperturbed. "We have been living on a bomb for years, but we are used to it. Calor Gas, I.C.I. North Tees Power Station, Saltholme's, tankers on the road, there could be a chain reaction and the whole lot could go up ... We live with all these chemical hazards so what is all the fuss about?" (38).

 

The residents did draw the line over the 93 acre tip however. "If they have money to open a tip, why can't they spend it on houses?" (39). There was great worry about the chemical waste to be dumped and the possibility of rats. As usual the residents blamed those in authority. " This used to be a lovely area once, but now they have let it run down" (40). Another said" Its a dump and now they are going to make it a licensed dump!" (41).

 

Ups and downs in the village's struggle, continued apace. A row of empty railway cottages had become unoccupied and soon became vandalized. Rats had appeared and the nearby homes had become infested with mice. Again the residents complained about those in authority. "The conditions there are really appalling and there was no need for it to get like this, because it was a very nice row at one time" (42).

 

Port Clarence now had no church, so the residents were therefore very curious, when two nuns of the "Lore to Sisters" moved into a house and began holding masses in their front room. The nuns described the locals as " beautiful and wonderful."

 

In the eighties, the problems of the isolated settlement had not been solved. In 1984 the settlement was said to be " Living in the shadow of lawlessness" (43). The remaining businesses in the former Haverton Hill residential district were suffering from burglary and vandalism. One pub had closed due to vandalism and a family butcher was "fed up" enough to move.

 

Local children were branded hooligans. "Gangs of children patrol the streets, upsetting local people and terrorizing pensioners" (44). The Residents Association thought that this was nonsense. The local beat policeman was praised for his surgeries with the local community. A successful youth club for youngsters existed. It was said that at worst, a crate of milk bottles might be dropped behind pensioners from the roof of a bus shelter, or cars or bikes might be driven through play areas (45).

 

Just before the multi-million pound facelift began, Port Clarence was described as " grim, boarded up homes, tumbledown shops and town" (46). The 300 gloomy all over greyness of a ghost families who had lived here for generations had, "watched the life slowly ooze out of the place .... the once friendly, buzzing terraces crumbling" (47).

 

On the other hand there was now " a great feeling of hope for the future" (49). All those remaining on the half empty estate had chosen to stay. The Community Centre was being "done up" and unemployed locals were working on the old pub " The Royal", and the parade of shops would be renovated in 1989.

 

In 1988 there were plans to build a nature reserve site at Haverton Hill. Despite its problems, the area supported interesting wildlife and plants, though the ground had been found to be contaminated with asbestos and toxics.

 

So what of the present and future? the Evening Gazette of 24.7.1990, said "Desolation reigns at Port Clarence" The former British Steel chemical plant is unused, despite the waste disposal firm "Caird" having bought it. The former Haverton Hill shipyard is in the same state. There is still too much derelict land awaiting development.

 

Of the residential communities, only the Port Clarence remnant remains and that is still in a state of flux. Inhabited homes face derelict houses or rows of recently built, or partially built, modernized dwellings  The road into Clarence travels through a lunar landscape of metal pipes, derelict railway sheds and modern industrial plants. In places vapours rise apparently from out of the ground by the road side.

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Haverton Hill provides no evidence above ground level of its former residential size. A strange scattering of buildings survive including two pubs, a butchers and a club. Clarence Street, the once busy commercial centre, is a wasteland of bricks flattened into a field of mud. The Clarence street pub, "The Queen's Head", still lives on. This building was built shortly after the Haverton Hill communities birth in 1850 and stands as a reminder of the former life of the community.

 

The street plan of the original community can still be traced. The church has gone but the graveyard is still there with its strange background of rusting sheds and belching cooling towers. The railway which gave life to the community so long ago, still transports goods through the site of the village. And of the future? Haverton Hill is a ghost town now. Its priceless community spirit has been dissipated around Teesside. The Port Clarence remnant lives on. It will no doubt face hard times in the future as it has done since its birth, as Samphire Batts. Its future depends on the spirit of the latter day counterparts of those who came from afar to make their lives in this tough, isolated village. It would be a brave or foolish person who would bet against the future of this community.

 

FOOTNOTES.

 

UNIV. OF DURHAM: Dept. of Social Studies. Report to the Billingham U.D.C. on a study of the Belasis Estate, Haverton Hill, September, 1963. Cleveland County Archives

2. ibid., p. 6.

3. ibid., p.13

4. ibid., p.15

5. ibid., p. 20

6. ibid., p. 33

7. ibid., p. 35

8.  ibid., p. 49.

9.  ibid., p. 65.

10. ibid., p. 66.

11. ibid., p. 65.

12. Evening Gazette, 9.12.1965. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

13. Evening Gazette, 28.10.1965. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

14. ibid.

15. Evening Gazette, 9.12.1965. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

16. Evenig Gazette, 10.3.1966. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

17. ibid.

18. ibid.

19. ibid.

20. North Eastern Daily Gazette, 16.3.1966. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

21. ibid.

22. ibid.

23. ibid.

24. ibid.

25. ibid.

26. ibid.

27. ibid.

28. Evening Gazette, 8.1970 (incomplete date). (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

29. ibid.

30. Evening Gazette, 3.10.1972. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

31. Evening Gazette, 1.4.1971. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

32. Evening Gazette, 13.4.1972. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

33. ibid.

34. Northern Echo, 10.1.1987. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

35. Evening Gazette, 4.10.1972. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

36. ibid.

37. Northern Echo, 19.1.1987. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

38. ibid.

39. Northern Echo, 19.1.87. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

40. ibid.

41. ibid.

42. Evening Gazette, 15.3.1977. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

43. Evening Gazette, 3.12.1984. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

44. Evening Gazette, 25.6.1983. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

45. ibid.

46. Evening Gazette, 11.8.1988. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library

47. ibid.

48. ibid.

49. Evening Gazette, 24.2.1988. (library cuttings). Middlesbrough Reference Library